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Either I’m missing something, or the new Apple TV 4K Siri Remote’s “circular gesture” – to make it work as a jog dial like an iPod click wheel – was false advertising. Running my thumb in a circle just waggles the play head back and forth.
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Found it! The gesture is to rest your thumb on the outer edge of the click wheel while paused, until the play head changes to a jog dial! Only works in apps that use the standard tvOS player (Netflix, Amazon, Apple TV, …), not a custom player (YouTube, Disney+, etc.).